22 Essential Stitches to Learn Using a Serger at Home

Sergers, also known as overlock machines, are a game-changer for home sewists. They trim, stitch, and finish edges in one swift pass, delivering professional-quality results that elevate everything from garments to home décor. If you've recently brought a serger into your sewing space—or you're thinking about it—learning its stitches is the key to unlocking its potential.

Getting Started

Before diving in, grab some scrap fabric, consult your serger's manual for threading instructions, and test each stitch. Adjust tension, stitch length, and differential feed (if your machine has it) as you go—practice makes perfect! Most of these stitches assume a 3/4-thread serger, the most common type for home use, but I'll note where fewer threads or special settings apply.

The Basics: Core Overlock Stitches

These foundational stitches are why you bought a serger—they seam, finish, and trim all at once.

4-Thread Overlock

• What it does: Joins two fabric layers with a strong, stretchy seam while finishing the edge.
• Use it for: Knit garments like t-shirts, leggings, or anything needing durability (e.g., denim seams).
• Tip: Uses both needles and both loopers—perfect for high-stress areas.

3-Thread Overlock (Wide)

• What it does: Finishes a raw edge or seams lighter fabrics with moderate strength.
• Use it for: Woven fabrics like cotton blouses or finishing seam allowances after sewing on a regular machine.
• Tip: Use the left needle for a wider stitch.

Rolled Hem Stitches

Rolled hems are a serger superpower, creating tidy, narrow edges without a separate hem fold.

3-Thread Rolled Hem

• What it does: Rolls the fabric edge under and encases it in thread.
• Use it for: Napkins, scarves, or ruffle edges on dresses.
• Tip: Tighten the lower looper tension and remove the stitch finger (if adjustable).

Specialty Seams

These stitches expand your serger's versatility for seams beyond the basics.

Flatlock (3-Thread)

• What it does: Joins two pieces with a flat, reversible seam.
• Use it for: Sportswear or decorative seams on wovens.
• Tip: Fold fabrics wrong sides together and loosen the lower looper tension.

Decorative Stitches

Your serger isn't just functional—it can add flair too!

Lettuce Edge

• What it does: Creates a ruffled, wavy edge.
• Use it for: Stretchy knit hems or playful ruffles.
• Tip: Increase differential feed and use a rolled hem setting.

Tips for Success

• Test First: Always run a sample on scrap fabric to tweak settings.
• Thread Quality: Use smooth, strong serger thread for best results.
• Manual Is Your Friend: Your serger's manual will detail exact adjustments for your model.
• Start Simple: Master the 4-thread overlock before tackling decorative stitches.